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Swimsuits for All launched in the United States in 2005 with a different premise: that the full range of bodies deserved actual swimwear rather than a polite nod toward extended sizing.

“Does this look flattering?” It’s one of the most common questions in fashion, yet we rarely stop to consider what the word actually means. On the surface, “flattering” sounds positive. But in fashion, it often serves as shorthand for making the body appear closer to an ideal: slimmer, taller, smaller, more toned, or more proportioned.

For most of the late 20th century, anti-aging skincare sold fear and aspiration in roughly equal measure. The fear was of becoming visibly older; the aspiration was a smoother, firmer version of the face, often lighter-skinned in markets where skin tone was also being sold as something to improve.